January 27, 2010

Rincon, January 16th, 2010



January 23, 2008

Skip Frye’s 50 Years of Surf

Skip Frye came up to Santa Babara recently. This is his 50th year of surfing and he said he wanted to kick it off by spending a week at Rincon, his favorite wave. Andrew Kidman was also in town and had the to idea to give Skip a “birthday” cake and surprise him with it at the local sushi restaurant. So my wife made Skippy this yummy carrot cake and we gave it to him. He was really surprised and said it was his best Rincon trip ever.


Skip with his cake January, 2008 and in the Outer Hebrides, 2001

December 15, 2007

Rincon Early December


Photo: Mike Kew


Photos: Todd Glaser

In early December a big swell hit Santa Barbara and the entire state decided to come here for a surf. Sandspit was too crowded and inconsistent. I thought that the bottom of the cove at Rincon was the best spot on this swell. This was the first real swell of the year so all of the sand that had built up over summer was still intact. People were kicking out of waves that would double up and reform into big sandy barrels. It reminded me of groyne Kirra in Australia before the Super Bank. Richard Kenvin came up from San Diego with a couple of his Simms fishes. They are designed after the original Bob Simmons twin fin that he made in the ’50′s. He is working on a film called Hydrodynamica which details Simmons history and the evolution of the fish design. Here’s a couple shots of me on the Sims fish. Both shots are of the same wave.